Since December, we have seen an epidemic of designers and creative directors stepping down from their roles. This season, there has been a notable phenomenon in new collections: recycling. Many labels have been accused of reimagining looks from previous collections. Vogue Business comments on this by explaining how the return of trends could be a recession indicator. The return of skinny jeans and peplum tops is a sign of an economic stall, and this could be why labels want a fresh perspective (as Anton Ego would say) when it comes to their collections. Creative directors want a new challenge and to tackle unconventional aesthetics. While some are retiring, most are moving on to something new. From Galliano to Donatella Versace, here are four iconic designers who transformed their respective brands and have announced their departures.
John Galliano and Maison Margiela
After 10 years at the helm of Maison Margiela, Galliano announced via a heartfelt Instagram statement to be saying goodbye to the iconic house to pursue personal projects and new creative ventures. He has been named British Designer of the Year four times, and rightfully so for his impactful work in all the labels he worked with. Some of his best work includes his recent 2024 Artisanal collection. The porcelain doll make-up by Pat McGrath and the corseted looks went viral and explored something new for the label. Ariana Grande performed at the 2024 Met Gala, wearing a look from the same collection. Similarly, his AW15 ready-to-wear collection was a showstopper. It characterised the celebration of imperfection and the rise of the individual, showcasing a form of calculated imperfection. It tried to replicate the nature of girlhood and the messiness it involves with unbrushed dry-shampooed roots on the runway. The collection featured wild colours, that I could only describe as a modern version of the Mad Hatter’s style. Overall, Galliano is considered one of the most iconic designers of this century with his theatrical fashion shows. He created a world of fantasy for Maison Margiela which will be hard to measure up to.
Donatella Versace and Versace
Donatella is leaving her role at Versace to become the chief brand ambassador after 28 years of gold designs. She will focus on representing the brand globally rather than designing. Former Miu Miu design director Dario Vitale has been given creative control and will bring fresh energy to Versace. Donatella Versace took over the label after her brother’s death, and she was often seen as inadequate for the role. She cemented Versace as a symbol of glamour, sex appeal and luxury. She created iconic moments in fashion, such as the Jungle Dress worn by Jennifer Lopez, which also inspired the creation of Google Images. Donatella has had a major focus on philanthropic work, and she will most likely pursue this as chief brand ambassador. She has been a major trendsetter through the years with fashion moments like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss wearing Versace silver dresses in 1999 or the creation of the viral colourful satin heels. The collection co-designed by Donatella Versace and Dua Lipa in 2023 marked spirits. One of the most impactful collaborations between a singer and a designer, this collection was for Donatella, “the perfect summer collection”. Showcased in the French Riviera, Dua and Donatella stated, “it felt like we were on vacation and that is exactly the spirit we want people to feel when they wear our clothes.” She will forever remain the face of Versace.
Demna and Balenciaga
After refining the brand’s aesthetic and getting into controversies, Demna is leaving Balenciaga and moving on to become the new artistic director of Gucci. In 2022, he was named one of the TIMES’s 100 most influential people in the world for his work with Balenciaga. He turned Balenciaga into a powerhouse of edgy, ironic fashion moments with designs like the Crocs heels and his dystopian runway shows like his 2022 Fall collection that was portrayed in a snowy, windy room. Balenciaga went through quite the scandal that same year when they featured bondage bears, amongst other things, in their ads. This led to a £21M lawsuit against the brand for using child sexual abuse as advertising. Although Demna provokes the viewer through his designs, this ad was inconsistent with Balenciaga and led to a significant drop in sales and attention. One of his most acclaimed and one of my favourite collections he designed is Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2022. The designs were shown on a Hollywood-style red carpet and gave a satirical take on celebrity culture. It combined the couture tailoring of classic Balenciaga with Demna’s streetwear DNA. In collections like this or the famous “Snowstorm” collection, he encapsulates his ability to merge high fashion and cultural critique through design and showcasing. Through his designs, Demna aims to bring a disruptive, streetwear meets luxury vision for Gucci that he has successfully delivered with Balenciaga.
Jonathan Anderson and Loewe
Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe after 11 years to concentrate on his own eponymous brand, JW Anderson. He elevated the house as a leader in modern luxury and craftsmanship with standout pieces like the Puzzle Bag, which was the first bag design since the 1980s for the brand. The label experienced exceptional growth during Anderson’s time as a designer. Starting as a Spanish leather goods brand in 1846, Anderson brought back the brand’s roots through his time as creative director and created new cult bags. The Squeeze was introduced in 2023 and is one of the brand’s best-selling bags. Of course, The Puzzle set the tone for future bag designs for Loewe, Anderson wanted to find a new way of building a bag to challenge the conventional designs attributed to the accessory. A fan favourite collection was the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. It encapsulated Anderson’s vision for the brand: a harmonious blend of conceptual art, innovation and wearable pieces. Featuring a giant flower in the middle of the runway, the collection was a perfect blend of minimalism and surrealism and challenged the eye with his anthurium flower motif. Jonathan Anderson truly proved himself during his time at Loewe and reinvigorated the label, his creative plans to grow JW Anderson are to look forward to.